Lawn Care Schedule by Zone

A lawn care schedule that works in Georgia won’t work in Minnesota. USDA hardiness zones, grass types, and local climate all affect when you should fertilize, apply pre-emergent, mow, aerate, and overseed.

This month-by-month calendar is organized by zone group so you can find the schedule that matches your region. Check your ZIP code to see your current Growing Degree Days and nail your pre-emergent timing.

How to Use This Guide

Find your USDA hardiness zone (check the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map or enter your ZIP code) and follow the calendar for your zone group:

• Zones 3–4: Upper Midwest, Northern Plains, Mountain regions
• Zones 5–6: Midwest, Northeast, Mid-Atlantic, Upper South
• Zones 7–8: Southeast, Lower South, parts of the Southwest
• Zones 9–10: Deep South, Gulf Coast, Southern California, Florida

Each zone group uses different grass types and has different timing windows. The schedules below assume the most common grass types for each zone.

Zones 3–4: Cold Climate Schedule

Common grasses: Kentucky Bluegrass, Fine Fescue, Perennial Ryegrass

January–February

• Lawn tasks: None. Ground is frozen and lawn is dormant.
• Planning: Order pre-emergent products. Review your lawn goals for the year.

March

• Lawn tasks: Minimal. Snow may still be on the ground.
• Watch for: Start monitoring GDD as temperatures begin to rise. Check your ZIP code weekly.

April

• Mowing: Begin mowing when grass reaches 3.5–4 inches. Set mower to 3 inches.
• Pre-emergent: Monitor GDD closely. In most zone 3–4 areas, GDD will reach the 150 threshold between mid-April and mid-May.
• Clean-up: Rake debris and dead grass to allow sunlight and air to reach the soil.

May

• Pre-emergent: Apply when GDD reaches 150. This is the typical window for zones 3–4. Check your GDD to confirm.
• Fertilize: Light spring application (0.5 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft) after the lawn has greened up and been mowed twice.
• Mowing: Mow weekly at 3–3.5 inches.

June

• Fertilize: Apply 0.75–1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft of slow-release fertilizer.
• Mowing: Continue weekly mowing. Raise height to 3.5 inches as temperatures increase.
• Watering: Begin irrigation if rainfall is insufficient. Aim for 1 inch per week.

July–August

• Mowing: Keep mowing at 3.5–4 inches. Never remove more than one-third of blade height.
• Watering: Consistent irrigation is critical. Water deeply 2–3 times per week.
• Weed control: Spot-treat any weeds that broke through with post-emergent herbicide.
• Disease watch: Look for signs of brown patch or dollar spot during humid periods.

September

• Fertilize: Apply 1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft. This is the most important feeding of the year.
• Aerate: Core aerate compacted areas to improve root growth.
• Overseed: Overseed thin areas immediately after aeration. Keep soil moist until seedlings establish.
• Pre-emergent (fall): Note: skip fall pre-emergent if you’re overseeding — the pre-emergent will prevent your grass seed from germinating too.

October

• Mowing: Continue mowing as needed. Gradually lower height to 2.5–3 inches for the final cut.
• Leaf removal: Keep leaves off the lawn to prevent smothering.
• Winterizer: Apply 0.75–1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft after the last mowing.

November–December

• Final tasks: Remove last leaves. Drain and store irrigation equipment.
• Lawn is dormant. No further action until spring.

Zones 5–6: Transition Climate Schedule

Common grasses: Tall Fescue, Kentucky Bluegrass, Perennial Ryegrass (some Bermuda and Zoysia in zone 6b+)

January–February

• Lawn tasks: Minimal. Monitor GDD starting in late February in zone 6. Check your ZIP code to start tracking.

March

• Pre-emergent: In zone 6, GDD may approach 150 by late March in warm years. Monitor weekly.
• Mowing: Begin mowing when grass actively grows. Set at 3 inches.
• Clean-up: Rake matted grass and debris.

April

• Pre-emergent: Apply when GDD reaches 150. Most zone 5–6 areas hit this window in April. Check your GDD for exact timing.
• Fertilize: Light application (0.5 lb N) once grass has been mowed twice.
• Mowing: Weekly mowing at 3–3.5 inches.

May

• Fertilize: Apply 0.75–1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft.
• Mowing: Continue weekly. Maintain 3.5 inches as heat builds.
• Watering: Supplement rainfall to maintain 1 inch per week.

June

• Mowing: Raise height to 4 inches during hot spells. This shades roots and conserves moisture.
• Watering: Deep, infrequent irrigation. Avoid daily light watering.
• Grub control: Apply preventive grub control (chlorantraniliprole) in June for season-long protection.

July–August

• Mowing: Keep at 3.5–4 inches. Cool-season grasses may slow down in heat.
• Watering: Critical period. Water early morning to reduce disease risk.
• Avoid fertilizing cool-season grasses during summer heat stress.

September

• Fertilize: 1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft. Most important feeding of the year for cool-season lawns.
• Aerate and overseed: Best window for overseeding thin or damaged areas.
• Fall pre-emergent: If not overseeding, apply fall pre-emergent for winter annual weed control.

October

• Fertilize: Optional second fall feeding (0.5 lb N) in early October.
• Mowing: Continue as needed. Lower height gradually to 2.5–3 inches for final cut.
• Leaf management: Mulch or remove fallen leaves.

November

• Winterizer: Apply 0.75–1 lb nitrogen after last mowing.
• Equipment: Clean and store mower, sharpen blades for next season.

December

• Dormant. No lawn tasks.

Zones 7–8: Warm Climate Schedule

Common grasses: Bermuda, Zoysia, Tall Fescue (zone 7), St. Augustine (zone 8)

January

• Pre-emergent: In zone 8, begin monitoring GDD. Some areas of the Deep South reach the application window in late January or February. Check your ZIP code.
• Planning: Order supplies for the year.

February

• Pre-emergent: Zone 8 areas may need to apply this month. Zone 7 should be monitoring closely. Check your GDD.
• Mowing: Dormant warm-season lawns do not need mowing.

March

• Pre-emergent: Zone 7 typically applies this month. Confirm with GDD.
• Green-up: Warm-season grasses begin to break dormancy.
• Mowing: Begin mowing warm-season grasses once active growth is visible. Set bermuda at 1–1.5 inches, zoysia at 1.5–2 inches.

April

• Fertilize: First feeding once warm-season grass has been mowed twice after green-up. Apply 0.5–1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft.
• Mowing: Weekly mowing begins in earnest. Maintain recommended height for your grass type.

May

• Fertilize: Apply 0.5–1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft.
• Weed control: Post-emergent treatment for any weeds that broke through.
• Mowing: Bermuda may need mowing every 5–7 days.

June–July

• Fertilize: One application of slow-release nitrogen (0.5–1 lb N per 1,000 sq ft).
• Mowing: Peak mowing frequency. Bermuda may need mowing every 4–5 days.
• Watering: 1–1.5 inches per week, adjusting for rainfall.

August

• Fertilize: Last summer feeding. Reduce rate to 0.5 lb nitrogen.
• Fall pre-emergent: Late August is the window for fall pre-emergent in zone 8 to target Poa annua and winter annuals.

September

• Fall pre-emergent: Zone 7 fall pre-emergent window.
• Fertilize: Last feeding for warm-season grasses. Keep it light (0.5 lb N).
• Overseeding (cool-season): If you have tall fescue in zone 7, September is your overseeding window.

October

• Mowing: Frequency decreases as growth slows.
• Watering: Reduce irrigation as temperatures cool.
• Leaf removal: Keep lawn clear of fallen leaves.

November–December

• Warm-season lawns go dormant. No fertilizer, minimal mowing.
• Cool-season lawns (zone 7): Apply winterizer fertilizer in November.

Zones 9–10: Hot Climate Schedule

Common grasses: St. Augustine, Bermuda, Zoysia, Bahia, Centipede

January

• Pre-emergent: Monitor GDD closely. In south Florida and the Gulf Coast, the application window can arrive in January. Check your ZIP code.
• Mowing: Warm-season grasses may still be semi-green. Light mowing as needed.

February

• Pre-emergent: Apply when GDD reaches 150. Many zone 9–10 areas hit this threshold in February.
• Fertilize: Wait until active growth resumes before fertilizing.

March

• Fertilize: First feeding of the year once grass is actively growing. Apply 0.5–1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft.
• Mowing: Resume regular mowing schedule. Weekly for most grass types.

April–May

• Fertilize: Apply 0.5–1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft.
• Mowing: Increasing frequency. Bermuda may need mowing twice per week.
• Insect control: Watch for chinch bugs in St. Augustine and mole crickets in bahia.

June–August

• Fertilize: 1–2 applications of slow-release nitrogen, spaced 6–8 weeks apart.
• Mowing: Peak frequency. Stay on top of mowing height — never remove more than one-third of blade height.
• Watering: 1–1.5 inches per week. Water early morning to reduce fungal disease pressure.
• Disease: Watch for gray leaf spot in St. Augustine and large patch in zoysia.

September

• Fertilize: Final nitrogen application for the year (0.5 lb N).
• Fall pre-emergent: Apply to control Poa annua and winter annual weeds.
• Mowing: Begin reducing frequency as growth slows.

October–November

• Mowing: Reduce as growth slows. Raise mowing height slightly.
• Watering: Reduce irrigation. Excess water in cooler months promotes disease.
• No fertilizer after September — late nitrogen promotes winter disease.

December

• Minimal maintenance. Light mowing if grass is still green. No fertilizer.

Key Takeaways

1. Pre-emergent timing is based on GDD, not calendar dates. Check your ZIP code to get location-specific data.
2. The most important fertilizer application for cool-season grasses is in September, not spring.
3. Warm-season grasses should not be fertilized during dormancy — that just feeds weeds.
4. Aeration and overseeding windows are short — plan ahead and execute when the time is right.
5. Every lawn is different. Use these schedules as a framework and adjust based on your specific conditions.

For more details on choosing the right pre-emergent product, check out our guide on the best pre-emergent for your lawn. And for fertilization details, see our when to fertilize your lawn guide.